All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Hidden behind the discreet entrance of Mandarin Oriental, Milan, Mandarin Garden feels deliberately removed from the city outside. Steps from La Scala and the Quadrilatero, it opens into a calm, green courtyard that immediately shifts the pace. This is not a restaurant designed around formality or theatre. It is one built around time, whether that is a slow breakfast, an unhurried lunch, or an aperitivo that quietly turns into dinner.
What sets Mandarin Garden apart is how confidently it delivers across the entire day, without any part of the menu feeling like an afterthought.
A Courtyard Designed for Lingering
The ambience here does a great deal of the work. The central garden is framed by greenery and softened by warm lighting, while the interiors lean into black-and-white mosaic floors, layered textures, and an elegant bar that anchors the space. During the day, it feels light and relaxed, with an easy flow between indoor and outdoor seating. In the evening, the atmosphere tightens just enough. Lighting becomes more intimate, music more present, and the room takes on a distinctly Milanese evening rhythm without losing its composure.
It is polished, but never stiff. Comfortable, but never casual. That balance carries directly into the food.
Breakfast: Calm, Considered, and Properly Done
Breakfast at Mandarin Garden is quietly impressive. The buffet is generous without being overwhelming, supported by à la carte dishes that feel thoughtfully prepared rather than simply functional.
Eggs are offered in any style, with options ranging from classic scrambled or poached eggs to more indulgent choices like eggs Benedict with smoked salmon. The evergreen omelette with fresh goat’s cheese, herbs, and avocado stands out for its balance and freshness. For lighter mornings, there is granola with yoghurt and fruit, bircher muesli with green apple and acacia honey, or a well-made porridge served with honey or maple syrup.
The pastry selection is strong, with pancakes, waffles, and French toast sitting comfortably alongside fruit plates and dairy options. Tea service is particularly notable, with a deep selection that feels more considered than most hotel breakfast offerings.
Lunch: Italian Classics, Cleanly Executed
Lunch is where Mandarin Garden’s Italian foundations are most apparent. The menu leans into familiar dishes, but with ingredients and execution that elevate them beyond expectation.
Risotto alla Milanese, made with saffron from Navelli, is exactly what it should be: rich, aromatic, and unforced. The tagliolino with tomato and basil is simple but well judged, while the minestrone of seasonal vegetables offers comfort without heaviness.
For those looking for something more substantial, the veal escalope Milanese with rocket and cherry tomatoes is a reliable centrepiece, crisp and generously portioned. Seafood dishes such as turbot with spinach and lemon sauce are clean and restrained, allowing the produce to speak rather than be dressed up.
Salads and sandwiches are not treated as secondary options. The Niçoise salad is properly composed, while the club sandwich, served with spiced potato wedges, feels indulgent without tipping into excess.
Dinner: Depth Without Heaviness
Dinner introduces a broader range of dishes while maintaining the same sense of restraint. Starters include seaweed-marinated amberjack with gazpacho and pink grapefruit, beef carpaccio with ponzu and Rosa Camuna fondue, and fried calamari served simply with tartar sauce.
Pasta dishes such as linguine with lobster or pici with sardines and breadcrumbs show a lighter hand than expected, while mains like seabass with trombetta courgettes and Champagne sauce or beef fillet with papaccella béarnaise bring just enough indulgence to feel like an evening out.
Vegetarian dishes are not sidelined. Braised cabbage with tamarind, watercress, and celeriac is thoughtfully constructed rather than tokenistic. Portions across the board encourage a full, relaxed meal without any sense of overindulgence.
Aperitivo and Cocktails Refreshingly Delivered
Aperitivo is where Mandarin Garden becomes most animated. The cocktail list is extensive and unusually detailed, structured around classic drinks, forgotten recipes, long refreshing serves, and a signature collection inspired by botanical gardens around the world.
Drinks such as pine-scented vermouth-based serves with raspberry-inflected bitterness, or cocktails built around eucalyptus, citrus, and subtle spice, show real creativity without veering into novelty. There is equal respect paid to classics, from vintage Negronis to well-balanced spritzes.
The wine and spirits selection is deep and confident, with an emphasis on Italian producers alongside Champagne, fine whisky, and a notably broad gin and amaro offering. Aperitivo here feels like an event, but never a performance.
Desserts: Elegant, Not Excessive
Desserts are handled with restraint and confidence. Tiramisu is traditional and well executed, while options such as Saint Honoré with caramelised choux and mascarpone chantilly or fruit-forward compositions layered with spice and texture offer complexity without heaviness. Ice creams and sorbets provide a clean finish to a longer meal.
The Mandarin Garden Experience
Mandarin Garden succeeds because it understands consistency. Breakfast does not feel like a placeholder. Lunch does not feel simplified. Dinner does not rely on drama. Aperitivo is taken seriously without becoming showy.
Service is attentive, warm, and unforced, allowing guests to set their own pace. Combined with an ambience that genuinely invites you to stay longer than planned, Mandarin Garden feels less like a hotel restaurant and more like a dependable Milanese address that happens to sit within one.
It is not trying to impress. It simply does what it does, exceptionally well.
Location: Via Andegari, 9, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
