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There are restaurants you go to because you’re hungry, and then there are places like The Grill where you arrive with an appetite for atmosphere. Perched on the serene edge of Lake Como, The Grill doesn’t shout for attention; it wins you over with a quiet kind of confidence. Chef Nicola Campanella has created a space where Mediterranean traditions are reimagined through the primal draw of open flame and a deep respect for seasonality. It’s elegant, but never intimidating. Think of it as a luxurious dinner party where the host happens to be a culinary genius.
Flame-Forward Philosophy
At the core of The Grill is its dedication to open flame and honest ingredients. The menu pays homage to the bounty of land and sea, showcasing regional sourcing, sustainability, and seasonal integrity. This isn’t just cuisine – it’s storytelling through smoke and sear.
Fire, Flesh and Flavour
The meat menu is unapologetically indulgent. Expect Fiorentina T-bone steak from Italy’s prized Pezzata Rossa, a 60-day dry-aged Bavarian Simmenthal ribeye packed with umami, and a melt-in-the-mouth A5 Wagyu tagliata from Japan paired with a ginger-mustard sauce. The Black Angus New York strip steak arrives with three house-made condiments: classic béarnaise, vibrant chimichurri, and a rich red wine and shallot jus.
Those seeking something more understated can opt for the lamb scottadito with aioli and mint – a dish that balances rustic depth with refined elegance. The veal chop offers a similarly graceful alternative.
From the Sea: Crudo, Oysters & Ocean-Inspired Plates
Seafood is equally celebrated. The raw bar could easily rival those on the Riviera. At its centre is the Plateau Royale: an opulent tower of oysters, scallops, red prawns, langoustine, salmon, tuna, and seabass. Each element is delicately dressed with vibrant sauces, from herbaceous Mediterranean blends to passion fruit-forward finishes.
Oyster aficionados will be delighted by the selection: the Perla del Delta from Italy’s Sacca di Scardovari, France’s nutty Royal David Hervé, and Ireland’s mineral-laced Regal Selection Or, each bringing their own coastal identity.
For something heartier, try the barbecued Scottish salmon with endive and robiola, or the Mediterranean seabass accompanied by sweet and sour vegetables.
A Mediterranean Prelude
Starters are thoughtful and full of character. The crab salad with avocado, marinated cucumber, and tomato is fresh and elegant, while the Piedmontese veal tartare, crowned with aged Comté and black truffle, offers depth and umami. Wagyu bresaola with goat’s cheese bruschetta and peach plays on contrast: earthy and summery all at once.
Vegetarian dishes shine too. The tortelli di melanzane grigliate, filled with grilled aubergine and paired with tomato extract and creamy stracciatella, is a standout. Meanwhile, the saffron risotto with roasted onion and Angus bacon delivers warmth and autumnal richness.
For the Plant-Based Gourmet
Plant-based plates are more than an afterthought – they are seamlessly integrated into the menu’s narrative. Highlights include chickpea farinata with buckwheat, sun-dried tomatoes and arugula, and a smoky aubergine tagliata with golden lentils and paprika.
Sides, Sweets & Sips
Sides elevate the experience further: grilled porcini mushrooms, truffled sweet potato fries, and Mediterranean vegetables dressed with herbs are each packed with flavour. Desserts reinterpret classics with flair – think chocolate and apricot cake, mascarpone layered with coffee-soaked ladyfingers, and a lemon caramel cremoso accented by rosemary and a subtle crunch of peanut.
As for drinks, the whisky collection is carefully chosen, featuring rare gems like Glen Garioch 1966 and Caol Ila 17. Even teas and coffees are presented with the same care, sourced sustainably, and served with ceremony.
A Thoughtful Dining Experience
In a world where dining can often feel overdone, The Grill returns to elemental beauty: exceptional ingredients, open flame, and a sense of place. Chef Campanella’s vision is clear – to reimagine Mediterranean tradition with quiet confidence.
Whether you come for the seafood tower or stay for the perfectly grilled steak, The Grill offers a dining experience that is both grounded and exceptional. Ideal for drawn-out dinners, compelling conversation, and a true taste of Lake Como, it’s a must-visit for any traveller with discerning taste.
Location: Via Regina, 42, 22012 Cernobbio CO, Italy
